Ferret FAQ

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Ferret FAQ (Single File)

This page has been accessed more than [lots of] times since May 29, 1996.

The Ferret FAQ is available as a set of HTML documents, a single HTML file [259 kB] or plain text (by FTP).

Also see:

Part 1: About Ferrets and This FAQ

0. About this FAQ

1. Where to get more information

2. Revision history of these files

3. Introduction to ferrets

Part 2: Ferret Care

4. Getting a pet ferret

5. Getting ready for your ferret

6. Ferret supplies

Part 3: Training and Behavior

7. Basic ferret care and training

8. Things ferrets say and do

Part 4: Health Care

9. Basic health care

10. Problems to watch for and related information

Part 5: Medical Overview

11. Common health problems

12. General medical information

13. Medical reference material

Medical FAQs

Other FAQs

Where to get this FAQ

This FAQ is available as an indexed, cross-linked set of HTML documents, as a single HTML document [260 kB] which can be easily downloaded and browsed locally, or as a set of five fully-indexed, text-only files (by FTP).

The text files are posted around the 20th of each month to the rec.pets, alt.pets.ferrets, alt.answers, rec.answers, and news.answers newsgroups. It's stored on various internet access systems and BBS's, including Compuserve and (I think) AOL, and it can be found in either English or Japanese (possibly a slightly older version) in library3 of the FPETS forum in Japan's NiftyServe system. For information about translations of the FAQ, email me or see the list at Ferret Central . It can be found, along with hundreds of other FAQs on a wide variety of topics, at any of the news.answers archives or mirrors; for instance, by FTP or on the Web.

If you don't have access to FTP, or if the server is busy (as it often is), you can also request them by mail. You can receive all five parts in separate email messages by sending a message to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> with the single line (in the body of the message) 

GET ANSWERS PACKAGE FERRET
To receive only a single part, instead send a command like 
GET ANSWERS PART1 FERRET

If all else fails, send me <pamg@rice.edu> email and I'll be glad to send you a copy.

Goal of this FAQ

A number of books exist which were written by experts and are intended to be comprehensive discussions of all sorts of ferret behavior and medical problems. This FAQ is not intended to replace any of those. However, there seemed to be a need for a document which covers many of the basic questions in a fairly light way. Originally, this was intended to be a FAQ in the purest sense of the term: a document to answer questions which keep coming up in the newsgroups and Ferret Mailing List.

However, over the months -- and years -- the FAQ grew, and its purpose broadened. More general questions, and especially more medical information, were included. Although I can't claim that this is now a comprehensive guide to ferret ownership, it is a good source of information and collective opinion about a wide range of subjects. Whether you're new to ferrets or a long-time owner, chances are this FAQ will have something interesting for you.

Credits and editor's notes

Contributions of individual respondents are marked as such and indented. Other sections were either written by me (Pamela Greene, <pamg@rice.edu>) or compiled from a number of contributions.

Special thanks to Chris Lewis and Bill Gruber, moderators of the Ferrte Mailing List; and to veterinarians Bruce Williams, Charles Weiss, Susan Brown, and Mike Dutton, for all their efforts on behalf of the members of the Ferret Mailing List and all "ferret friends". Thanks also to the dedicated ferret enthusiasts who have helped to translate the FAQ and Medical FAQs into other languages, inlcuding Japanese and French, with others in progress.

Thanks also to the many people from the Ferret Mailing List who contributed (perhaps unwittingly!) responses, comments, and corrections, too many to list here (at last count, the list included 97 different people).

Ferret FAQ copyright and redistribution information

This compilation, which includes five main files and several "auxiliary" pages as described on and "pointed to" (directly or indirectly) by its main Index page, is copyright © 1994-1998 by Pamela L. Greene. It may be freely distributed by electronic, paper, or other means, provided that it is distributed in its entirety (all 5 files), including this notice, and that no fee is charged apart from the actual costs of distribution. It may not be used or included in any commercial or for-profit work without prior written permission. (For-profit service providers such as Compuserve and America Online are granted permission to distribute the files provided that no additional fee beyond standard connection-time charges is levied.)

Anyone who wishes to is encouraged to include a link to the main Index page of this document set wherever it might be appropriate.

Is there a shorter FAQ to hand out at meetings? Are there FAQs for particular diseases?

There are five parts to the main Ferret FAQ. The contents of those parts are listed in the index.

If you're looking for something to hand out at pet stores, vets' offices, club meetings, and so forth, you might want the Ferret mini-FAQ, a much shorter document which covers all the basics and is formatted to be printed out. There's also a single-page tri-fold brochure with the most important information, ideal for vets' offices and pet stores. They're each available as a Postscript or PDF file (which can be read using the free Adobe Acrobat Reader) by FTP, or you can email your postal address to me at <pamg@rice.edu> to get copies on paper.

There are also FAQs dedicated to several common diseases:

These FAQs are not posted to any newsgroup, but you can FTP them. You can also receive them from a mailserver. To get a copy of all the files, each in a separate email message, send email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> with the single line (in the body of the message): 
GET DISEASE PACKAGE FERRET
To receive only a single part, instead send one of these commands: 
GET ADRENAL DISEASE FERRET
GET INSULIN DISEASE FERRET
GET LYMPH DISEASE FERRET
GET SKIN TUMORS FERRET
GET CARDIO DISEASE FERRET
GET ENLARGED SPLEEN FERRET
GET GREEN VIRUS FERRET
GET GASTRIC ULCERS FERRET
Finally, there is a single-part Ferret Natural History FAQ, which contains information on ferret biology, history, domestication, taxonomy, and so forth. It's available from Ferret Central , or from the CUNY listserver using the command 
GET NATURAL HISTORY FERRET
You can also send me <pamg@rice.edu> email and I'll be glad to send you whichever files you'd like.

How can I find a ferret breeder/shelter/vet/catalog?

An extensive list of ferret clubs, breeders, organizations, vets and catalogs is maintained by STAR*Ferrets. It is also available from a list server. Send email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> with the line 
SEND FERRET DATABASE
in the body. Note that the file is rather long, which may give some mailers problems.

The American Ferret Association (AFA) also maintains a list of shelters, and a local ferret club may know about one not on either of the lists.

What mailing lists are there, and how do I join?

The Ferret Mailing List (FML) is strongly recommended. To subscribe to the FML, send email to its moderator, Bill Gruber, at <ferret-request@cunyvm.cuny.edu> and ask to be added. You can also try subscribing automatically by sending email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> with the command 
SUBSCRIBE FERRET <first-name> <last-name>
in the body of the email.

You'll get a note back detailing policies and such and explaining how to send letters to the list. Back issues of the FML are available by sending the command INDEX FERRET in the body of email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu>, and an unofficial WWW archive is also available, though not quite as complete.

The Ferret Forum mailing list tends to be shorter and perhaps more international in flavor than the FML. To subscribe, send email to <majordomo@bolis.com> with a blank Subject and either "subscribe ferret-forum" (for the regular version) or "subscribe ferret-forum-digest" (for the daily digest) in the body of the message (no quotes in either command).

The "Ferret Tails" mailing list is a digest of ferret stories, adventures, poems, and other entertainment. Email <kingfshr@northcoast.com> with "subscribe ferret-tails <your email address>" in the body of your message.

There are other mailing lists, too, including several regional lists. A list is available, or email Christine Code for information.

What about interactive online chats?

There are several interactive WWW chat/talk servers; for a list, see Ferret Central.

Various IRC chats exist, on servers such as undernet.org, irc.mcgill.ca, irc.quarterdeck.com, or irc.eskimo.com. Specific server/channel combinations include

For more information about IRC, consult the IRC FAQ. A weekly online chat also happens on AOL, Saturdays 10 pm - midnight Eastern time. Sometimes there are guest speakers. This chat is only accessible to AOL users: go to keyword "Petcare", then select "Animal Talk Room 1".

Where can I find pictures or clip-art of ferrets online?

[Photo of a ferret, full side view]
The Ferret Photo Gallery has a large collection of JPEGs and GIFs much like this one. There are also the Equipment How-To Photos, which show and describe examples of cages, shoulder bags, collars, and so forth.

The Oregon Ferret Association has a clipart archive, and Bob Nixon maintains an archive with many ferret pictures, too. Files there which start with "clip-" are clip-art.

Most of the pictures at one site are also at the other.

Is there any other information available online?

Discussions of ferrets sometimes come up in the Usenet newsgroups alt.pets.ferrets and rec.pets. The FAQ "Fleas, Ticks and Your Pet" is distributed there as well, and is also available by FTP. Several bulletin board systems keep pet FAQs and discussions, as does the Compuserve Small Mammals forum (GO PETSTWO).

An index of ferret information is available from Ferret Central .

Various ferret-related information is available from the file server at CUNY; send the command 

INDEX FERRET
to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> for a complete list, with descriptions.

What are some of the books available?

Lots of books have been written about ferrets, ranging from brief treatments to extensive discussions of behavior and medical issues. Introductory books, all most owners will ever need, are usually available in pet stores. A few of the more popular are
Biology and Diseases of the Ferret, by James G. Fox. Lea and Febiger, Philadelphia (1988). ISBN 0-8121-1139-7

The Pet Ferret Owner's Manual, by Judith A. Bell, DVM, PhD. ISBN 0-9646477-2-9 PB, 0-9646477-1-0 LB. Clear, well-written and comprehensive, with lots of color photographs. Dr. Bell is an internationally known expert on ferret medicine and care.

A Practical Guide to Ferrets, by Deborah Jeans. Contact the author at Ferrets Inc., P. O. Box 450099, Miami, FL 33245-0099; fax 305-285-6963.
"Excellent, easy to read, very thorough and up to date, and written with a lot of love and care," says Dr. Susan Brown, DVM.

Ferrets: a Complete Owner's Manual, by Chuck and Fox Morton. Barron's Educational Series, Hauppauge, NY, 1985. ISBN 0-8120-2976-3
A relatively short, but well-written guide. Not as in-depth as some, but a very good, friendly introduction to ferrets as pets.

Ferrets in Your Home, by Wendy Winsted. T.F.H. Publications, Inc., Neptune City, NJ, 1990. ISBN 0-86622-988-4
Longer and more in-depth, but still very readable. Includes, for instance, more information on reproduction and breeding, but also more expensive.
For somewhat more in-depth medical and natural history information, Bob Church recommends
Ferrets, Rabbits and Rodents - Clinical Medicine and Surgery, by Elizabeth Hillyer and Katherine Quesenberry (1997)

Wild Mammals of North America, by Chapman and Feldhammer (1989)
Use the section about mink, perhaps tempered somewhat with the black-footed ferret. Together, they are very similar to the polecat, which is the driving force behind our ferrets.

Ethology: the Mechanisms and Evolution of Behavior, by James Gould (1982)

How do I start a ferret club or shelter?

Extensive advice on starting a ferret club, shelter, or other service, including sample forms and other materials, is available from STAR*Ferrets for a nominal fee. Contact Pamela Troutman of STAR* at P. O. Box 1714, Springfield, VA 22151-0714 or email <starferet@aol.com>.

Revision history

For links to sections with significant changes, see What's New in the Ferret FAQ.

The most accurate description of the version of this FAQ is the date at the bottom. For really minor changes, I won't necessarily change the version number, but I'll always change the date.

What are ferrets? Do they make good pets?

[Photo of a ferret, full side view]
Ferrets are domestic animals, cousins of weasels, skunks and otters. (Other relatives include minks, ermines, stoats, badgers, black-footed ferrets, polecats, and fishers.) They are not rodents; taxonomically they're in between cats and dogs, a little closer to dogs. They are friendly and make excellent pets. If you've never met one before, the easiest way to think of them is somewhere between cats and dogs in personality, but rather smaller. They can only see reasonably well, but they have excellent senses of hearing and smell. Some are cuddly, others more independent; they vary a lot, just like other pets.

What's good about ferrets as pets?

[Photo of a ferret pushing an empty ice cream cone across the floor]
Ferrets are a lot of fun. They are very playful, with each other and with you, and they don't lose much of that playfulness as they get older. A ferret -- or better, two or more -- can be a very entertaining companion. They are smarter than cats and dogs, or at least they act it. They are also very inquisitive and remarkably determined, which is part of their charm but can also be a bit of a bother. They are friendly, and they do know and love you, though for some of them it can take a year or so to fully bond.

They can be trained to use a litter box and to do tricks, and most of them love to go places with you, riding on a shoulder or in a bag. They sleep a lot, and they don't particularly mind staying in small places (a cage, for instance, or a shoulder bag) temporarily, although they need to run around and play for at least a couple of hours a day. A "single" ferret won't be terribly lonely, although the fun of watching two or three playing together is easily worth the small extra trouble. Barring accidents, ferrets typically live 6-10 years.

Okay, what's the catch?

Ferrets have lots of good points as pets, but there are some negatives as well. Like kittens and puppies, they require a lot of care and training at first. They're "higher maintenance" than cats; they'll take more of your time and attention. Ferrets have their own distinct scent, which bothers some people, and many of them aren't quite as good about litter pans as cats are. Although most ferrets get along reasonably well with cats and dogs , it's not guaranteed, so if you have large, aggressive pets (particularly dogs of breeds commonly used for hunting), keep that in mind. Likewise, small children and ferrets are both very excitable, and the combination might be too much.

Finally, the importance of ferretproofing must be emphasized. Ferrets are less destructive than cats, but they love to get into EVERYTHING, so if you keep them loose you'll need to make sure they can't hurt themselves or your possessions. They love to steal small (and not so small!) objects and stash them under chairs and behind furniture. They like to chew on spongy, springy things, which must be kept out of reach or they'll swallow bits. Accessible boxes, bags, and trash cans will be crawled in, and houseplants within reach are liable to lose all their dirt to joyful digging. Finally, many ferrets tend to scratch and dig at the carpet. Naturally, these traits vary from one ferret to another, but they're all pretty common. If you're not willing to take the necessary time to protect your property and your pet, a ferret may not be for you.

Are ferrets wild? Why are there ferret permits?

Domestic pet ferrets, Mustela furo (sometimes called Mustela putorius furo), are not wild animals. They have been domesticated for a very long time, perhaps two or three thousand years. They're not equipped to survive for very long on their own; escaped pets suffer from dehydration, starvation and exposure, and usually don't survive more than a few days unless someone takes them in. Unlike cats and dogs, ferrets aren't even large enough to push over garbage cans and scavenge.

Domestic ferrets are generally believed to be descended from the European polecat; they were originally used as hunting animals to catch rabbits and rodents. They weren't supposed to kill the prey, they just chased them out of their holes and the farmers (hunters) killed them. This practice is now illegal in the U.S. and Canada, but it's still fairly popular in the U.K. and some other places.

What's an FFZ, and why do they exist?

A "ferret-free zone," or FFZ, is a place where ferrets are banned or illegal. In some other places, ferret owners are required to have licenses or permits. States, counties, and municipalities outlaw or restrict ferrets for a variety of reasons, pretty much all invalid, but I'd say that the fundamental problem is that many people don't understand what a pet ferret is.

What are some of those invalid reasons, you ask? Well, a common one is that ferrets are seen as wild animals like raccoons or skunks, rather than a domestic species like housecats. Of course, ferrets have been domesticated for at least 2500 years. Another popular misconception is that ferrets pose a serious rabies danger; in fact, studies have indicated that it's very hard for a ferret to catch rabies, and when one does, it dies very quickly, so the danger is very small indeed. Besides, there's a ferret rabies vaccine which has been shown to be effective. A third common reason for banning ferrets is the idea that escaped pets (nearly all of which are spayed or neutered) will form feral packs and threaten livestock or native wildlife. There are no confirmed cases of feral ferrets (as opposed to polecats or polecat-ferret crosses, for instance) in the U.S., and a few deliberate attempts to introduce domestic ferrets to the wild have failed miserably, so this, too, is an unfounded fear -- even if one could picture a ferret harming a cow or breaking into a commercial poultry farm.

The only states which now ban ferrets are California and Hawaii. In the face of overwhelming evidence, many areas are being persuaded to change their outdated regulations.

Why so much confusion?

Most of the misconceptions regarding domestic ferrets probably come from mistaking them for their wild cousins. It's very difficult to tell a polecat or a mink from a domestic ferret when all you've seen is a flash of fur disappearing into a burrow, and polecats and minks are quite common in the less-developed areas of Europe and North America.

Because of the similar names, domestic ferrets have also been confused with their cousins the North American Black-Footed Ferrets, Mustela nigripes. Black-footed ferrets (BFFs) are wild remote relatives of the domestic ferret. They are an endangered species: the only BFFs known to exist are in zoos or in a breeding program in Wyoming. However, despite similar appearances, the BFF is not very closely related to the domestic ferret.

Are ferrets legal where I live? Do I need a license?

Depending on where you live, ferrets may be completely unregulated, require a license to breed but not to own, require a permit to own, or be entirely illegal. This varies by state or province, county, and city.

You can find out about your town by calling the local Wildlife Department or Fish and Game Department, the humane society, or veterinarians (recommended in that order). Note that some pet stores in FFZs sell ferrets anyway, so the presence of one in your corner store may not be any indication of their legality, and I wouldn't necessarily trust the pet store to be honest about local laws.

Katie Fritz has compiled an extensive, though not complete, list of FFZs. If you have or want more information, contact her at <redshoes@ix.netcom.com> or on CompuServe at 71257,3153.

Here's a list of some of the larger places where ferrets are illegal, as of April 1997. A more extensive list is also available.

California, Hawaii

Washington, DC; Dallas, Ft. Worth, Beaumont, and various other cities in TX; Bloomington and Burnsville, MN; Tulsa, OK; Columbus, OH; London, York, and East York, Ontario, Canada; Puerto Rico

Although ferrets aren't actually illegal in New York City or Minneapolis, MN, they are not welcomed and may be confiscated or ticketed. Similarly, although it's legal to own ferrets in South Carolina, it's not legal to sell them there, and the state is known to be pretty ferret-unfriendly.

Many military bases ban ferrets. It seems to be at the discretion of the base commander.

Permits or licenses are required in order to own ferrets in the following places: New Jersey ($10/year), Rhode Island ($10/year), Illinois (free). Permits are also required in St. Paul, MN, and may be difficult to obtain.

These lists are by no means complete, so check locally before you buy a ferret.

I'm allergic to cats. Will I be allergic to ferrets?

There's really no way to tell. You could be highly allergic to some other animal and have no problems at all with ferrets. If you think you might be allergic, visit a pet store, breeder or friend who has one and check. Allergies might make you sneeze, or you might have a skin reaction from touching or being scratched by a ferret. One person wrote me to say he was allergic only to intact males, so you may want to try contact with females or neutered males as well. Also note that some people are allergic to the perfumes pet stores often put on animals, but not to the animals themselves.

How long do ferrets live?

Ferrets typically live 6 to 10 years, with 6 apparently more common than 10. The oldest ferret I know of is 15.

How much do ferrets cost?

Prices for ferrets vary widely from place to place, and depending on where you get the ferret. Prices for stores and breeders are usually in the US $75-$250 range, typically around $100. Plan on another $100-$250 for a cage and supplies, plus around $75 for the first batch of vaccinations.

Of course, there are also regular costs of caring for the ferret. They don't eat much, so food and litter aren't a huge expense, but there are also treats and hairball remedies, plus the annual checkups and vaccinations. In addition, though it might not happen, you should be prepared to pay for at least one $300 vet visit in each ferret's 6- to 10-year lifetime, from his getting sick, being in an accident, or eating something he shouldn't.

Do ferrets smell bad? What can I do about it?

Ferrets have an odor all their own, just like any pet. Some people like the musky scent, a few can't stand it, and most are in between. (Personally, I think it's much better than wet doggy smell or cat box stench.) If the ferret isn't yet altered, having that done will cut down on the odor a lot; whole (un-neutered) males, particularly, have a very strong smell. Young kits also have a peculiar, sharp scent which they lose as they get a bit older.

Descenting a ferret doesn't change the day-to-day smell. Only the scent glands near the tail are removed, which prevents the ferret from releasing bad-smelling musk if it's frightened, but doesn't stop the normal musky oils which come from glands throughout the skin.

The two big things you can do to cut down on your ferret's odor are to bathe him less -- yes, less -- often and to clean his bedding more often. Most of the musk stays in the cloth, on the litter or paper, and on your floors and furniture, not on the ferret himself. Cleaning them can be a big help. Also, right after a bath the ferret's skin glands go into overdrive to replenish the oils you just washed away, so for a few days the ferret will actually smell worse. Foods containing fish may make your ferret, or his litter pan, smell worse than those with chicken, lamb, etc.. You may also find that your ferret smells more during shedding season in the spring and fall.

Some people have had good luck with Ferret Sheen powder and various air filter systems.

Is a ferret a good pet for a child?

Many people have both children and ferrets without problems, but there's a difference between having both children and pets, and getting a pet for your child. It's important to remember that a ferret is a lot like a cat or dog, and will require the same kind of attention and care. It's not at all like keeping a pet hamster or guinea pig. If your child is responsible, careful, and not too young, and you're willing to supervise and help out with the care, a ferret will be a great pet. Otherwise, consider getting a low-maintenance pet you can keep in a cage instead.

Supervise children with any pets

It is definitely necessary to monitor interactions between young children and ANY pets closely, and to make sure children know the proper way to handle pets. A living creature needs, and deserves, to be treated with more care than a toy. Ferrets in particular love to pounce and wrestle when they play, which may frighten children, and children tend to play rather roughly, which may prompt a more vigorous response from an active ferret than from a typical cat.

Just as some very friendly dogs become nervous around children because they don't look, smell, or act like adults, some ferrets who aren't used to kids don't quite know how to behave around them. Make sure both your child and your ferret understand what's expected of them, and what to expect from the other one. At least one person suggests that ferrets brought up around other animals, including other ferrets, will adjust to a child better than ones only used to adult humans.

What about ferrets attacking babies?

There are several stories floating around about ferrets attacking babies, some more true than others. Ferrets are unfamiliar to most people, so it's easier for them to make sweeping statements on the basis of a tiny amount of information. Some of the reports are simply rumor, or the result of confusing another animal with a ferret. Others are based in fact, but omit important information (for instance, that the child and pets had clearly been neglected or abused prior to the attack). A small number are unfortunately true.

However, plenty of children have been attacked and even killed by dogs and cats. The number of people injured by ferrets each year is a tiny fraction of the number wounded or killed by dogs. People don't claim that all dogs and cats are too dangerous for pets, but rather that more responsible parenting and pet ownership is needed.

According to Chris Lewis, former moderator of the Ferret Mailing List:

The FML has carried confirmed reports of two, possibly three, cases where an animal identified as a "ferret" has seriously injured, and in one case, I believe, killed, infants. One in the UK, and one or two in the US. In none of these cases has it been proven that the animal was a ferret - particularly in the UK, it is quite possible that the animal was actually an European polecat which are raised for fur and sometimes for hunting (in the UK). And in each case gross child and animal abuse is well documented. But it's important to remember, that even the most pessimistic statistics on ferrets show that a ferret is about a thousand times *less* likely to cause injury than a dog. Indeed, every year there are hundreds of very serious or fatal dog attacks in the US alone. Worst case statistics show approximately 12 ferret attacks ever recorded in the US.
Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:
I can say from personal experience that there are many, many more bite incidents with the household dog or cat, and that either of these species tend to do a lot more damage. I have seen children require over a hundred facial stitches from getting between the dog and its food, but never anything like this with a ferret. But I've also been nailed by my share of ferrets too.

Personally, I don't recommend ferrets for people with children under 6 or 7 - either the child or the ferret ends up getting hurt.

What are the different ferret colors?

Ferrets often change colors with the seasons, lighter in the winter than in the summer, and many of them lighten as they age, too. Different ferret organizations recognize different colors and patterns, but unless you're planning to enter your ferret in a show, the exact label isn't particularly important. Some of the more commonly accepted colors are described in general terms below, adapted from summaries written by William and Diane Killian of Zen and the Art of Ferrets and Pam Troutman of STAR*Ferrets.

The albino is white with red eyes and a pink nose. A dark-eyed white can have very light eyes and can possibly be confused with an albino. These can actually range from white to cream colored with the whiter the color the better. A dark-eyed white (often called a black-eyed white) is a ferret with white guard hairs but eyes darker than the red of an albino.

The sable has rich dark brown guard hairs with golden highlights, with a white to golden undercoat. A black sable has blue-black guard hairs with no golden or brownish cast, with a white to cream undercoat.

The chocolate is described as warm dark to milk chocolate brown with a white to golden or amber undercoat and highlights.

A cinnamon is a rich light reddish brown with a golden to white undercoat. This can also be used to describe a ferret with light, tan guard hairs with pinkish or reddish highlights. Straight tan is a champagne.

A silver starts out grey, or white with a few black hairs. The ferret may or may not have a mask. There is a tendency for the guard hair to lighten to white evenly over the body. As a ferret ages each progressive coat change has a higher percentage of white rather than dark guard hairs. Eventually the ferret could be all white.

White patches on the throat might be called throat stars, throat stripes, or bibs; white toes, mitts (sometimes called silver mitts), or stockings go progressively further up the legs. A blaze or badger has a white stripe on the top of the head, and a panda has a fully white head. A siamese has an even darker color on the legs and tail than usual and a V-shaped mask; and a self is nearly solid in color.

What do you call a ferret male/female/baby/group?

[Photo of a male and a female ferret] [Photo of a young ferret kit]
A male is called a hob, and a female is a jill. To some people, neutered males (first picture, on the right) are gibs and neutered females are sprites (on the left), but these are new terms and aren't as commonly used. A baby ferret of either sex (second picture) is a kit.

The most commonly accepted phrase for a group is "a business of ferrets". Some people spell it "busyness" instead. Another possibility, "fastening" or "fesnyng," is thought to be due to a misreading of "bysnys" long ago.

How can I help the ferret community?

There are lots of ways you can help the ferret community at large. If your ferrets are very trustworthy and have had their vaccinations, take them with you to the park or pet store and show people what wonderful pets they are, to counteract all the false rumors. (Be very careful, though: if your ferret should nip or scratch someone, even by accident, some states will kill him for rabies testing, even if he's been vaccinated. You may want to only let people pet his back.) Give good ferret information, perhaps a copy of this general FAQ and the Medical FAQs, to your vet.

Adopt, foster, or sponsor a ferret from a local shelter, or donate old towels, shirts, food, litter, cages, money, or time. Many shelters could use help with construction projects, computer setup and use, recordkeeping, etc., as well as day-to-day ferret care, cage cleaning, and trips to the vet. (However, shelter directors are very busy people, and may have established routines they'd rather not have disrupted, so don't be offended if your offer of help is refused. Ask if there's something else you could do instead.) To find a shelter near you, see the STAR*Ferrets list of clubs, shelters, etc. or contact a local ferret club.

Participate in the "Support Our Shelters" coupon book program, in which you send $25 and receive a book of grocery store coupons of YOUR choice worth at least $200. More information is also available by sending the command 

SEND COUPON ORDER FERRET
in the body of email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu>.

Which color is the best? Male or female? What age?

Color

As with people, a ferret's inherent personality is more important than color or gender. Choose whatever color you like best.

Gender

[Photo of a male and a female ferret]
There's no consistent personality difference between a (neutered) male and a female. Males are generally considerably larger, around 18" and 2-5 pounds (that's 45 cm and 0.9 to 2.3 kg, in the US; European-bred ferrets differ a bit) compared to 15" and 0.75-3 pounds (40 cm and 0.4 to 1.3 kg) for females. Males' heads are usually wider, which can give them a more cat-like appearance. If you're getting an unneutered ferret, bear in mind that the cost to spay a female can be higher than the cost to neuter a male. (Unless you're specifically planning to breed them, you will NEED to "alter" your pets.)

Age

[Photo of a young kit playing in a coffee mug]
There are two contradictory opinions regarding what age ferret is best for a new owner. Adults tend to be a bit calmer and may already be litter- and nip-trained, but they are larger and may have acquired bad habits, too. Kits are very cute, and their small size and (for a young kit) sleepiness can be less intimidating for a new owner, but they require more care and a lot more training and will become very active before too long. Ferrets under 7 or 8 weeks probably shouldn't be away from their mothers yet, and many breeders prefer to keep their kits for 10 weeks or more.

Is this ferret male or female?

If you can't tell whether you have a male or female, it's probably a female. :) Look on the belly of the ferret, about halfway between the tail and the bottom of the rib cage. If you see what looks like an "outie" belly button, it's a male -- and it's not a belly button. Otherwise, look just in front of the anus for a second opening, perhaps with a tiny flap of skin. If you see that, it's a female.

To double-check, look at a once-used litter pan. Ferrets usually urinate and defecate in one "sitting," and because of the anatomy described above, males leave puddles a few inches in front of their piles, females right on top.

How many should I get? All at once, or one at a time?

Ferrets don't need other ferrets to be happy, but if you won't be around much, two or more will keep each other company. They'll also be more fun, but more responsibility. Many people have three, five or more ferrets, which may be more fun than you can take. :-)

I'd recommend getting one at first, so you can get to know it, and it you. There's some advantage to only having to train one at a time, too. I'd suggest at least a month between them, if you're going to get several, although it's certainly not necessary. If you decide you want more later, you can always get another; they usually get along just fine. There's no problem mixing (neutered) ferrets of either gender in any combination.

Where can I get a pet ferret? What should I look for?

Where to go

Many pet stores have ferrets, and there are often ads in the newspaper placed by small breeders with kits to sell or people who want to sell older ferrets.

A ferret from a ferret shelter is also an excellent choice. They're often a little older than kits from a pet store, but they've probably already been litter- and nip-trained, and the shelter director will know more about their individual habits and personalities. It's also less expensive to adopt from a shelter, and of course you're giving a home to a ferret in need. A local ferret club or a veterinarian who treats a lot of ferrets may be able to help you find a nearby shelter.

What to look for

In any case, look for bright, clear eyes, healthy skin and whiskers, soft coat, and a curious, alert attitude. You can't tell just how a kit's colorings will turn out, but if you watch and handle a group for a while you can tell a surprising amount about their personalities. Young kits will generally be pretty sleepy and uncoordinated, but they'll grow out of that soon enough.

What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear? What's the deal with Marshall Farms?

Blue dots on the ear

If your ferret has two blue dots tattooed in his right ear, chances are he's from Marshall Farms, a large breeder located in Western New York. They tattoo one dot when the ferret is spayed or neutered and the other when it's descented. Several other breeders also mark dots in their kits' ears, so a tattooed ferret may not be from MF. Hagen, a Canadian breeder, uses a red X (for females) or Y (for males).

Marshall Farms (MF) has been the subject of some controversy because they sell ferrets to laboratories as well as for pets. Some people feel that MF's efforts to produce ferrets for lab use might have resulted in their pets being genetically less healthy, but there's no evidence to support that. In fact, for many types of research, genetically diverse animals are needed.

About Marshall Farms

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:
There have been a lot of rumors going around recently concerning Marshall Farms ferrets. I'm not sure where they got started, but let's try to put this subject to bed.

Sure, Marshall Farms ferrets develop tumors. So do ALL ferrets . We don't know why ferrets develop most tumors - we know that they are most likely to develop them between the ages of 4 and 6, but not why. But it is certainly not Marshall Farms' responsibility when a ferret that they sold two years ago develops a tumor... To my knowledge - there are no inherent "defects" with Marshall Farms ferrets. Don't get me wrong - I know that Marshall Farms is the biggest breeder of laboratory as well as pet ferrets. I don't condone laboratory research on ferrets, or other animals for that matter and I don't do any. But I have never seen any problems with Marshall Farms ferrets that I could relate to Marshall Farms.

Jeff Johnston, an epidemiologist (though not a ferret vet), adds:
The bigger risk for so-called "congenic" animals is not cancer, which seems to be the alleged association with MF ferrets, but infectious disease since a microbe that is seriously infectious to one animal, will be equally infectious to all. And I haven't heard anyone report that MF ferrets are more susceptible to infectious disease than other ferrets.

I don't believe that the evidence exists to convict Marshall Farms of breeding ferrets with defects. And now that so many allegations have been lobbed against them, the information gathered about MF ferrets is almost certainly biased. This happens all the time in the epidemiology of genetic diseases. A particular defect occurs twice in a family--perhaps coincidentally--and the family and their doctors go out of their way to look for it.

How do I introduce a new ferret to my established one(s)?

[This section was written by Kelleen Andrews, with contributions from me and others.]

Dominance fighting is normal in ferret introductions. The severity can range from nearly nonexistent to all-out war. Prepare for the worst, and then anything less than that will seem like a piece of cake! Patience is the most important virtue. Often all is well in 3-14 days but sometimes peace is not achieved for 3, 5, or even 7 months. Ferrets that have been away from other ferrets for two years or more tend to take longer to adapt. Keep in mind that your final goal is well worth the work and that having two or more ferrets that have each other to love and play with is the greatest joy you -- and they -- may ever know!

It's often easier to introduce a new ferret when the others are still fairly new themselves. A ferret who's used to being an "only ferret" or a group which has been together for several years may resist the newcomer more strongly. It's also sometimes easier to introduce two at once, to divide everyone's attention.

Many techniques can be used to ease the transition. No one technique works on all ferrets; a combination of them has the best chance of success. Reassure all ferrets often that everything is OK and they are loved.

Unfortunately in very rare instances peace is never achieved and a new home may need to be found for the newcomer. Of course you'll want to be sure the new home will be understanding and loving, but also make sure the prospective new owner is aware of the problems the ferret has had getting along with yours, since even if he wasn't the aggressive one it will affect his relations with other ferrets. You don't want him to end up being passed from house to house, never able to fit in.

Sometimes, even after an established ferret and a newcomer have stopped fighting, the first ferret may start to act depressed, especially if he's used to being an "only ferret". Ferret psychology is still an undeveloped field, but most people interpret this glumness as jealousy or resentment of the new ferret. Be sure to pay plenty of attention to all your pets, and give the depressed ferret a couple of months to adapt. Chances are he'll come to see the new ferret as a playmate instead of an interloper. In extreme cases, you may need to resign yourself to only having one ferret, and find a good home for the other(s).

Will my ferret get along with my other pets?

[Photo of a young ferret and a cat]
Most ferrets don't get along with birds, fish, rabbits, rodents, lizards, and the like, though there are some exceptions. For a dog or cat, patience is the most important part of the introduction. Give the new animal a chance to get used to you and your home before introducing it to the other pets one at a time, very slowly.

Cats

Cats are generally less dangerous than dogs, simply because of their size. For the first week or so, hold both the cat and the ferret (two humans is handy here) and just let them smell each other a few times a day. Over the next week or two, gradually give each animal a bit more freedom, watching them closely, until they're used to each other. Once you're convinced that they're used to each other and get along all right, let them interact freely, but supervise them for a while to be sure. Make sure the ferret has an escape route, a barrier the cat can't get through or a safe hiding place.

It's generally believed that ferrets get along with cats better if they're introduced when the cat is still a kitten and is more willing to play, but there are plenty of exceptions. The same is probably true of dogs.

Dogs

[The following information on dogs and ferrets comes from Marie I. Schatz.]

(1) First, do some work training the dog. Buy a dog training book, go to beginning obedience school (this should be something you do anyway). You want the dog to listen to your commands without fail.

(2) Try putting the dog in a carrier or crate (modified so the ferrets can't slip through) and let them run around the room while he watches. Interact with the ferrets so he knows they're part of the "pack".

(3) Hold the dog very firmly, with your hand right under his muzzle, while you let the ferrets run around and sniff him. Give LOTS and LOTS of encouragement to the dog and make loving noises over the ferrets. The ferrets are going to want to nibble his feet and jump at his face - try not to let this happen (two people will help). If the dog snaps at the ferrets, even with your hand right there, you won't have enough time to react. (Swift, loud assertive NO!'s right away if this happens.) So you may want to invest in an inexpensive cloth muzzle. You can't keep a muzzle on the dog long since he won't be able to pant, and it will tend to stress out the dog. I used one for the first couple of 10 minute intro's - still holding the dog.

(4) If the dog seems to be doing well, i.e. fairly low prey and chase drive with good bite inhibition - put a leash on the dog when you finally get to the point where they are loose together. Stay close. You may want to use the muzzle again for the first time. The leash will allow a faster grab if the dog starts to chase the ferrets.

(5) Do the "advanced" stage introductions in a room where there are lots of places for the ferret to get under or hide, or create some in the room temporarily.

(6) If things work out reinforce by giving treats to the ferrets first, then the dog - reinforce that the dog is lower in the pecking order.

(7) No matter how good things get, NEVER leave the dog's toys, rawhide chews, etc. lying around. The ferret will naturally want to investigate and hide them, and no matter how good the dog is it's just asking for trouble.

(8) You should also try feeding the dog separately, when the ferrets aren't around.

All any of this does is allow you to ascertain what kind of prey drive your dog has, without risking the ferrets too much. If the dog has a low prey drive and good bite inhibition and is just playful it should be apparent, and all this may be unnecessary or go relatively fast. If the dog does seem to have a very high prey drive, try a different older dog. Sometimes rescue groups can help with this as the foster homes may know a little about the dog's personality.

How can I best ferretproof my home? What do I need to worry about?

[Photo of a Plexiglas door barrier]
As every ferret owner knows, our little friends love to get into trouble. Whether your ferrets live in a cage when you're not around or are free all the time, whether they live in a single room or have the run of the house, the first line of defense, both for your ferrets and for your possessions, is a well-ferretproofed home.

Ferrets love to worm their way into any little hole (as small as 2 X 2 inches, or smaller for kits and some adults), which can be very bad if the hole in question is under or behind a refrigerator or other appliance (with exposed wires, fans, insulation, and other dangers), into a wall, or outside. Crawl around on your stomach to look for holes near the floor and under cabinets, especially in the kitchen and laundry area. Even holes inside cabinets (which are particularly common in apartments, where plumbers are often rather sloppy) should be blocked, just in case.

Ferrets can open cabinets and drawers, which can be dangerous or just annoying depending on what's inside them. Also watch out for heaters or furnace ducts. You can block openings with wood or wire mesh; be sure to leave ventilation around appliances. For doorways, try a smooth piece of plywood or Plexiglas slid into slots attached to the sides of the doorway. Recliners and sofa-beds are very dangerous; many ferrets have gotten crushed in the levers and springs underneath. They're difficult to ferretproof, except by putting them in a forbidden room. Even regular couches and beds can be dangerous if the ferret digs or crawls his way into the springs or stuffing.

Next, look around the area your ferret will be playing. Remove anything spongy from reach, and put fragile items out of the way. Keep in mind that many ferrets are good climbers and jumpers, and they excel at finding complicated routes to places you never thought they could reach. They can get onto a sofa, into a trash can, onto the third shelf of a set of bookcases, into a bathtub or toilet (from which they might not be able to jump out), and into the opening on the back of a stereo speaker. They can also open cabinets and drawers, unzip backpacks, and climb up drawers from underneath or behind to get onto the desk or kitchen counter.

So many things to investigate

Apart from obvious dangers such as bottles of household cleaners, which ferrets do sometimes like to drink, be particularly careful with sponges, erasers, shoe insoles, foam earplugs, Silly Putty, foam rubber (even inside a cushion or mattress), styrofoam, insulation, rubber door stoppers, and anything else spongy or springy. Ferrets love to chew on that kind of thing, and swallowed bits can cause intestinal blockages. For some reason, many ferrets like to eat soap, so you'll have to keep that away from them. (A little lick won't hurt your ferret, just give her a bit of diarrhea, but large amounts can be a problem.) Human foods should also be kept out of reach, since even the ones which aren't dangerous to ferrets aren't good for them in large quantities.

Be careful about full bathtubs, where your ferret might possibly drown, and consider keeping your toilet lid closed for the same reason. Buckets of water, paint, etc. can also be drowning or poisoning hazards, or might just be tipped over. Toilet paper and paper towel rolls are a problem because ferrets get their heads stuck in them and can choke or suffocate, and if you let your ferret play with plastic bags, you may want to cut off the handles and cut a slit in the bottom.

Certain ferrets may also have special ferretproofing needs; for example, some like to eat paper, cloth, or plastic bags, which can easily cause a life-threatening intestinal blockage. A few ferrets like to chew on electrical cords or plants, and some common plants are quite poisonous. Liberal application of Bitter Apple paste to the cord or plant can help persuade your pet to stop gnawing on it.

What's that about cats and curiosity?

Finally, once your home is done, it's important to keep it safe. Watch your ferret's toys to make sure they're not beginning to crack or break apart, and keep in mind that you can be dangerous to your ferret, too. Always double-check your dishwasher, refrigerator, clothes washer and dryer (even top-loading models) before closing them or turning them on, and watch where you sit and walk: that chair, throw rug, or pile of laundry might be hiding a napping ferret.

How can I protect my carpet, plants, cabinets, bed, or couch?

Carpet

Many ferrets dig at the carpet, especially near doors that are closed. It's very difficult to teach them not to do it. You're better off protecting your carpet by putting down a piece of plastic carpet protector from an office-supply store. Chances are your ferret will get bored with digging when she sees she's not getting anywhere, though it might take a while for that to happen. A carpet scrap or sample from a carpet store might work, too, although your pet will be able to shred it, so she might not give up as quickly. For out-of-the-way places, wire mesh can be nailed to the floor through the carpet; be sure to protect any sharp corners or points.

Plants

 Also be aware that ferrets like to dig in and possibly chew on houseplants, and some common ones are quite poisonous. Plants can be protected from digging (but not chewing) by putting large rocks or metal mesh over the tops of their pots.

Beds

Many ferrets like to rip the cloth on the bottom of a box spring and climb into it, where they can easily get crushed or caught. To prevent that, try putting a fitted sheet on the bottom of the bed, anchored in place with small nails or brads, or attach wire mesh or a thin piece of wood to the underside of the box spring. You may need to drill air holes in the wood so the box spring can still compress.

Cabinets and drawers

Depending on how your cabinets and drawers are constructed and how determined your ferrets are, you might be able to keep them closed using strong tape, rubber bands around a pair of handles, a nail or wooden dowel through the handles, or a strip of strong Velcro-type tape on the door and frame. Attaching eye hooks (screws with a ring shape at the top) to the door and cabinet and putting a nail through them both has worked for some people, and the latches with a pair of rollers on one piece and a mushroom-shaped catch are said to be strong enough for most ferrets.

Some kinds of child-proof locks also work very well, though others are too weak or open wide enough to let a ferret through. The magnetic latch-and-key system works best for many people; they're available at many hardware or childrens' stores, or from the Woodworker's Store catalog (1-800-279-4441) or the Safety Zone catalog (1-800-999-3030). The kind that lock around two handles at once, available from baby stores, have also gotten a good report.

Couches

If your ferret scratches at the underside of your couch to get through the fabric into the bottom, try taking off the couch's legs, if it has them. Heavy cloth or plywood stapled or nailed to the bottom can work, too, though ferrets can often rip cloth loose. Sometimes ferrets try to get into the bottom or arms of the couch by burrowing between the cushions and the back or sides. This is much harder to prevent, but some people have had good luck blocking the area with cloth or wood, stapled, nailed, taped or sewn to the couch. You can also give in and remove the bottom fabric and lower stuffing from your couch, putting a piece of plywood on the springs and the cushions on that. Then it doesn't matter as much if your ferrets get into the bottom, as long as they don't get caught between the cushions and the springs.

Many ferret owners find it simpler to give up and get a futon or a "suspended" couch that doesn't have an inside in the first place.

What will I need to take care of my new ferret?

You will need:

More details

[Photo of a ferret wearing an H-type harness]
Ferretone and Linatone are similar vitamin supplements that nearly every ferret considers a wonderful treat. Bitter Apple is a bad-tasting liquid or paste intended to stop pets from chewing things. The paste will probably be much more effective. You may want an H-type harness and a leash for walks. Ferrets love to play in, and empty, water bowls, so you might want to give them a rabbit-type water bottle instead, or at least provide one in case their bowl gets tipped over.

About litter pans

You will almost certainly need more than one litter pan, particularly if you have a large home. Small-size cat litter pans work fine, as do plastic dishpans, storage boxes, or large school supply boxes. Many ferrets don't seem to like the special triangular corner boxes, probably since they can't climb all the way in, but yours might. (Before buying one, ask ferret-owning friends. Chances are somebody has one sitting around that his ferrets never use.) For a travel cage or shoulder bag you can use a Rubbermaid-type plastic container intended for bread or ice cream (about 6 X 9 X 5 inches). Make sure the sides of the pan are at least 4 inches high, since ferrets habitually back into corners to deposit their wastes and you don't want messes over the sides of the pan. However, one side of the pan should be no more than an inch or two high, so your ferret can get in and out easily. This is especially true for a young kit.

If you're particularly sensitive to cleaning pans or to litter pan odor, one novel suggestion was to use empty milk jugs, standing upright, with the circular indentation on the side cut out. Use only a small amount of litter, and the whole jug can then be thrown away when it gets dirty.

Do I need a cage? Where can I get one? How should I set it up?

Many people keep their ferrets in a cage or very well-ferretproofed room whenever they can't be supervised. This drastically reduces the risks of digestive-tract blockages from swallowing indigestible objects, injury, and escape. However, even if you plan to let your ferrets have the run of the house at all times, you'll want a cage at first for litter-training and other kinds of training as well as for temporary use.

A metal mesh cage is probably the best choice. Many pet stores keep ferrets in aquarium-like enclosures, but they are not recommended as cages. They don't provide enough ventilation at the bottom, and your ferret will feel isolated from whatever's going on in the room. Most aquaria also aren't nearly big enough. Plain wood cages aren't recommended because the wood soaks up urine and other liquids, so getting the smell out and getting the cage really clean are nearly impossible. If you use wood, cover the floors with linoleum squares or coat the whole thing with polyurethane.

What size cage will I need?

[Photo of a ferret cage]
If you plan to keep your ferret caged whenever you're not home, and you'll be gone most of the day, a generous cage size is about 2 X 3 feet and 2 feet high (60 X 100 X 60 cm). A second or third ferret could share that size cage. Of course, a nice, big "condo" is even better, especially with lots of levels and hammocks to prevent falls from the top shelf. If you'll only be using the cage temporarily, such as when you're vacuuming or taking your pet on a vacation, 1 X 2 X 1 feet (30 X 60 X 30 cm) is sufficient for one or two ferrets, perhaps three. For trips around town, a shoulder or duffel bag equipped with a litter pan and mesh window works well.

Where can I get a cage?

One option is to make the cage yourself. It may be cheaper than a store-bought cage, and you can get exactly the size and configuration you want. Photos and descriptions of various types of homemade cages, as well as instructions for building one of them, are available. Of course, pet stores and catalogs have lots of cages, too. Multiple-level "cat condos" are probably the most popular store-bought cages. Some people like the easily cleaned medium or large size plastic dog kennels, modified to make multiple levels, although others think that they don't provide enough ventilation or contact with the outside world.

Many of the condos for sale in pet stores are made by Midwest and are available for less from Dog Outfitters (cheaper than Ferret Outfitters). Call 1-800-FOR-DOGS. Safeguard will make custom cages to your design, and also sells several standard cages. You can call them at 1-800-433-1819. Sorry, I don't have numbers for international callers. (This is not intended as an advertisement. Specific products are mentioned here only because people keep asking about them.)

What should be in the cage?

[Photo of a ferret's bed basket]
In the cage, you'll want some sort of "bedroom" for your pet. A ferret won't be very happy sleeping on the open floor of a cage, even on (or, more likely, under) a towel or shirt, but any small cardboard box or basket works well as a bedroom. Old T-shirts and sweatshirts make excellent bedding, as long as they aren't too easily chewed to bits. Old towels usually work well too, though some ferrets tend to get their nails caught in the loops. Don't use wood shavings. The bottom of the cage can be covered with linoleum squares, carpet samples, or cloth cage pads.

Other than food, water, a litter pan, bedding, and a bedroom, what you put in your ferret's cage is largely up to you. Enough room to stretch and move around is important, and different levels, ramps, tunnels made from dryer hose or black drainage pipe, and so on will probably be appreciated. Hammocks made from old jeans or shirts and a set of metal eyelets are very popular for both napping and playing. Most ferrets get bored easily when caged and sleep much of the time, so they probably won't get a whole lot of use out of toys; they'd really rather be out playing. Just be sure nothing you put in your ferret's cage could hurt him, whether by catching a toe, being swallowed, or some other way.

Also be sure your cage door fastens securely, perhaps even with a small lock, because ferrets can be very determined and rather intelligent escape artists. Twist ties, cable ties, or bits of wire often work well for fastening down litter pans or some bowls; and clothespins and small bungee cords can be enormously handy for holding all kinds of things down, up, or closed.

Any suggestions on toys?

Store-bought toys

[Photo of a ferret playing with a plastic ball in a corner] [Photo of a ferret carrying off a squeaky toy]
Cat toys work well for ferrets, though you need to be sure they don't have any small, removable parts or foam stuffing which might cause digestive-tract blockages. Most ferrets are rather harder on toys than a cat would be, so choose accordingly. Plastic balls, with or without bells, work well if they are not easily broken or swallowed (the little "webbed" ones break too easily). Soft vinyl rubber is okay, but not the spongy kind -- it's too easily shredded and swallowed. For hard rubber toys, be sure they can't get stuck in your ferret's mouth, and take them away when they start to crack. Avoid superballs: ferrets love to chew them to bits and eat the pieces. Cat or dog squeaky toys are good if they're tough enough to stand up to chewing and easily squeaked. Catnip won't hurt ferrets, but it doesn't affect them like it does cats. Remote-control cars are also popular, if somewhat expensive, ferret toys, though they may prefer chewing on the wheels.

Homemade toys

[Photo of a ferret in a hammock] [Photo of a ferret playing with a rolled-up sock on a string]
Most ferrets enjoy playing in a hammock made from a piece of cloth and some metal eyelets, and the leg from an old pair of jeans will be fun to crawl through or nap in. For other toys, try umbrellas, bathrobe belts, tennis balls, golf balls, ping-pong balls, film canisters (rinsed to wash out any chemicals), or old socks with bells rolled up in them. Plastic shopping bags are popular, but watch to be sure your pets don't suffocate or eat the plastic. Cardboard boxes are also fun, especially several nested together with ferret-sized holes cut at various places. Plastic bottles can be turned into clear ferret play-tubes by cutting off their tops and taping them together. Carpet-roll tubes and tunnels made of plastic pipe, dryer hose, or black drainage tubing are popular too. Avoid tubes from toilet paper or paper towels, though; they're small enough that ferrets can get their heads stuck in them and choke or suffocate.

[Photo of a ferret in a piece of dryer hose]
An excellent, inexpensive toy is a piece of plastic dryer hose about 4" (10 cm) in diameter. Wrap any loose wire ends. Be sure that your real dryer hose is out of reach (or get a metal one), since you're showing your pets that dryer hoses are great fun to crawl through. Clear dryer hose is even more fun, though less sturdy. One brand is Clear Duct by Dryer Mate, Model No. P48-C, a product of Nemco, Inc.. Several ferret clubs and shelters have begun selling clear hose as a fundraiser. If you can't find any locally, you should be able to order the original hose in 8-foot lengths or by the foot, or new heavy-duty hose in 20-foot pieces or also by the foot. Contact Crissey Fowler Lumber, 117 W. Vermijo Ave., Colorado Springs, CO 80903, 719-473-2411, fax 719-473-0653. Talk to Stan in Plumbing.

Everything else

No matter what you decide your ferret's toys are, he or she will almost undoubtedly choose some household items you never expected, as well. Keep anything that would be damaged with a little chewing, or that might hurt your pet, well out of reach. Unfortunately, digging up houseplants is also enormous fun to a ferret, but there are some things you can do to protect your plants.

What kind of collar/bell/tag/leash should I use?

Collar material

[Photo of two ferret collars and tags] [Photo of a ferret wearing a collar] [Photo of a ferret wearing an H-type harness]
Depending on your ferret, either a nylon kitten collar, a thin, flat leather puppy collar, or a piece of ball chain will work well. A leather boot lace can also make a fine collar; just knot it at the right size. The problem you may run into with a nylon collar is that some ferrets will scratch at it, which pulls the nylon threads and can tighten the collar dangerously. Also, be aware that both nylon and leather can shrink if they get wet, so never leave a wet collar on your pet; it may shrink and choke him as it dries.

Sizing the collar

For either of the collars, you may need to make an extra hole, then trim off the extra length and (for nylon) melt the end together. Be sure to leave enough to go through the little ring after it's buckled. For the ball chain (the kind made for light-pulls or to lift the stopper in a toilet), just snip it to the proper length. The collar should be loose enough to go over your ferret's head easily; if it gets stuck on something, better a lost collar than a choked ferret.

We've never had any problems with either of our ferrets getting hurt by catching their collars in anything, but we make sure to leave them loose enough that the furry snakes can slip out if they happen to get caught. In fact, the easiest way we've found to get the collars on is to fasten them, then shove them over the ferrets' heads while occupying them with Ferretone.

Leashes

The cord-like figure-8 leash with a screw for adjustments, sold wrapped around a cardboard cutout of a ferret, isn't the best choice for a leash. It's too easy to get out of and too hard to adjust, the adjustment nut can break, and the cord can chafe the ferret. A flat nylon H-type harness with a leash clipped to the back will work much better. Several people have recommended the harnesses made by the WarmFuzzy Rescue (610-926-9087 or <warmfuzzy@aol.com>), andMarshall Pet Products (1-800-292-3424) also makes a popular one.

Bells and tags

A small cat bell and small-size plastic tag have worked well for us on a kit as young as 9 weeks. The slot on some of the smallest bells is easy to get a nail stuck in, though, so you may need to widen it a little with a nail file.

I recommend getting an S-shaped hook for the tag rather than a split ring, since the rings have a tendency to loosen. Twice one of our ferrets got hers caught in a sweater or blanket -- which both frightened her and unraveled the item she was frantically rolling in before she pulled out of the collar. You can also attach the collar and tag using a neatly trimmed piece of stiff wire. For a nylon or leather collar, you'll probably want to poke the S-hook directly through the collar and put the bell and tag on the same hook, though, since attaching them to the ring on the collar makes them hang down far enough to drag on the ground.

Do the ferrets mind?

Neither of our slinkies seems to mind wearing a collar or bell, although the first time we put them on our older pet she spent 15 minutes trying to convince us she was dying and then the next hour playing with the jingly toy that followed her wherever she went.

In short, tags and collars are handy for nearly all ferrets. Ours have never gotten out, but even just around the house it gives enormous peace of mind to be able to tell where they are!

What should I feed my ferret?

The key ingredients in any food for ferrets are fat and protein, specifically animal protein, since ferrets' short digestive cycles prevent them from getting enough nutrition from vegetable proteins. Chicken, turkey, beef, and lamb are all fine; most ferrets don't like fish, and it may make their litter pan smell worse. The food needs to have 30-35% protein and 15-20% fat, and animal protein should be the first ingredient and at least two or three of the next few.

Unless your ferret is overweight, you should just keep her bowl full and let her eat as much as she wants.

The food debate

Cat foods seem to have done okay for many years, but there's a fair bit of debate about which food is best for ferrets, whether high-quality cat/kitten foods are good enough, and so on. The usual conclusion is that while foods designed for cats probably aren't the best we could do, most of the foods with ferret pictures on the bags weren't designed for ferrets either -- they were designed for mink or cats and maybe modified slightly, and priced twice as high. If you choose a food packaged for ferrets, check its label just as you would a cat food.

There is only one food I know of which was designed and feed-tested exclusively for ferrets, and that's Totally Ferret, from Performance Foods. It's very expensive and not available everywhere. (Call Performance Foods at 1-800-843-1738 or write them at 38251 Industrial Park Blvd., Lisbon, OH 44432 to find out the nearest distributor.) Many people feel that it's the best food, at least for ferrets who aren't overweight (it's pretty rich), but most people also agree that cat/kitten foods are entirely sufficient, and that there's not that much difference between them.

Kitten or cat food

Most people feed their ferrets high-quality cat food, such as Iams, Science Diet, or ProPlan. High-quality food may cost a bit more than grocery store brands, but your pet will eat a lot less and be much healthier. We've found that an 8-pound bag of dry food (usually $10-$15) lasts two ferrets a couple of months, so the cost of feeding them even high-quality food is not very great.

Because of their high protein requirement, ferrets up to three or four years old should get kitten or "growth" foods. Older ferrets can have kidney problems from too much protein, though, so they should be switched to the cat versions.

Soft cat food is not good for ferrets, partly because it generally contains much less protein than the dry kind and partly because it isn't hard enough to rub plaque off their teeth and can lead to tooth decay. However, very young kits and those recovering from illness or surgery may need their food moistened with water for a week or two. Note that moistened food spoils much more quickly than the same food left dry, so dump out leftovers every day.

Other stuff

Dog food is NOT acceptable, as it lacks some nutrients ferrets (and cats) need. Among other things, ferrets and cats both need taurine, which is found naturally in poultry; many cat and ferret foods supplement it as well.

Variety and change

In general, feeding your pet a variety of foods, rather than just one brand, is probably a good idea. Ferrets are known to be finicky eaters, and if the brand you've been using changes or is suddenly unavailable, you may run into problems if it's all your pets will recognize as edible. To switch from brand A to brand B, start mixing them before you run out of A. Add B a little at a time until they're getting half each, then phase out A. (Also see information on supplements, as well as fruits, vegetables, and treats.)

About ethoxyquin

Every so often, a discussion starts up about ethoxyquin, which is used in many pet foods to preserve the unsaturated fats. In short, it's very unlikely that there's any problem. The amount of ethoxyquin used in cat food is far below the maximum concentration allowed by the FDA. No adverse effects have been shown in any studies, including some done by researchers not affiliated with any pet food company. In fact, ethoxyquin has been shown to have an anticancer effect in cats. Foods which don't contain ethoxyquin use high levels of vitamin E instead, at greatly increased cost and generally reduced shelf life.

Laura L'Heureux Kupkee, a veterinary student, says:

The original reports about ethoxyquin were started by one single dog breeder whose bitch lost pups. They did not know why, so they thought they'd send a [food] sample to a chemist friend. The friend analyzed it, and said it contained ethoxyquin, a component in car-tire manufacturing [but then, so are a lot of things, including many compounds remarkably similar to Petromalt and probably water]. The breeder was shocked and immediately blamed the ethoxyquin, the newspapers grabbed it, and now here we are. There was never any mention of the fact that the bitch in question may also have had some autoimmune problems. Nor was there *any* proof that the chemical caused the abortion of the pups.

Should I give my ferret any supplements?

Ferretone and Linatone

Ferretone and Linatone are two popular vitamin supplements. They are also one of the most common treats, since nearly every ferret loves them. They're very similar and can be used interchangeably, although their exact composition is a bit different. Both of these contain vitamin A, which can be very harmful or even fatal in excess, though it probably takes a whole lot more than you'd ever give your ferret. Still, some people prefer to dilute them 50/50 with olive oil or vegetable oil (not mineral oil), which shouldn't hurt. Also, as with hairball remedies, too much Ferretone or Linatone can give your ferrets loose stools. No more than a few drops to one pump a day is recommended, and it's not thought to be necessary to give them any at all if you're using a good food.

Hairball remedies

Similarly, many people give their ferrets a small amount of a cat hairball remedy such as Laxatone or Petromalt on a regular basis. This can help them pass the styrofoam, rubber bands, and such that they seem to love to eat, as well as helping to prevent hairballs from fur swallowed during grooming. Even better, most ferrets seem to think of this as a wonderful treat, too. As with all treats and supplements, give them only in moderation; you can estimate how much by taking the recommended cat dosage and adjusting for a ferret's smaller weight.

What are good treats?

Lorraine Tremblay has compiled a WWW page with advice and suggestions about ferret treats.

Most ferrets enjoy some fruits and vegetables. Although they're not necessary for good nutrition if you're feeding your pets a high-quality cat food, small amounts of these won't hurt. Just be sure you don't fill your ferret up on fruit, since he'll need to eat his regular food to get the required protein. Too much of nearly anything can be harmful, so try to vary your treats.

Some popular suggestions: a slice of banana (mashed, so it's more digestible), raisins, peanut butter, bits of pear, peppermint (small licks), freeze-dried liver (sold as cat treats), Pounce cat treats, puffed rice cakes, green beans, wheat crackers, Ferretone, Petromalt ... Try feeding your ferret pretty much anything, in small pieces. You never know what yours will consider a fabulous treat. I've heard of ferrets going wild for everything from spaghetti to blueberries.

Things to avoid

Although most ferrets love milk and ice cream, they shouldn't be allowed to have much. This is especially true for young kits, since the lactose in cow's milk gives ferrets diarrhea, which can easily cause them to become dehydrated. Goat's milk, available in some pet stores, is okay. Likewise, I've heard that soy milk is good for them and generally liked, but I haven't seen any verification.

Too much fiber can also give ferrets diarrhea, so limit raisins, bananas, prunes, oatmeal, apples, and anything with bran in it. Sugary treats aren't good for them either, since they can cause dental problems. (Despite the rumors, there is no evidence that sugar causes diabetes or other metabolic problems in mammals.)

Be careful with chocolate. Most ferrets like it, but the xanthines/theobromine found in it may be toxic to them in large enough quantities; nobody's sure. It's not recommended as a treat. (However, many people give their ferrets an occasional chocolate chip with no problems.) Likewise licorice -- the real thing, not the plastic, fruity, red stuff that goes by the same name -- is surprisingly strong. It's been used for medicinal purposes in the past; it might not be a good treat. Both chocolate and licorice are more likely to be dangerous to ferrets with heart problems. Onions, garlic, and other members of that family can cause Heinz body anemia in dogs and cats; nobody's sure about ferrets, or what the dangerous dose might be (the tiny bit in some meat baby foods is probably fine), but caution is advised.

What kind of litter should I use?

Some people have had problems with the clumping varieties of litter, due to some ferrets' habits of sniffing at their litter corners or dragging their rumps across the litter when done using it. The litter can get into their noses or rectums, where it clumps and causes problems. You may not want to take the chance.

Likewise, cedar shavings are not recommended, for the same reasons that they don't make good bedding.

Other than that, any kind of litter meant for cats is okay for ferrets. You and your ferret may prefer one to another, since they all control or cover odors differently, track more or less dust, cost more or less, and so forth. Many people favor pelleted wood litters (or wood stove pellets, available inexpensively at many large hardware stores). Others even use alfalfa pellets (rabbit food), which are often cheaper than cat litter but generally don't cover odor as well. If your pet is used to one and you switch, it may take a while for him to connect the scent of the new litter with where he's supposed to go. (Also see the information on litter training.)

Pet stores use wood shavings as bedding. Should I?

In short, no. Many pet stores and some breeders use cedar or pine shavings as bedding/cage lining for their ferrets, but it is not recommended. Cedar in particular has been associated with allergies and respiratory problems in various animals, including, for example, humans and rabbits, but pine and other woods also produce a fair amount of dust and such which isn't very good to breathe. Why take the chance?

Furthermore, wood shavings are completely unnecessary. Ferrets are more like cats than hamsters: they'll be quite happy with a clean towel or old T-shirt placed in a small "bedroom box" or basket for sleeping. Sure, some pet stores and breeders use shavings, but they don't really have the option of using towels.

Dr. Williams' article

Of course, it would be better if pet stores didn't use wood shavings either. Corn cob bedding is just as convenient for them and is dust-free and safe. If you need some authoritative information to convince your pet store to stop using wood shavings, here's an article by Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM:
(The following short article may be reprinted by anyone desiring to disseminate this information in a newsletter or non-commercial publication. This material may not be altered or changed in any way. Under Title 17 of the U.S. Code, Section 105, copyright protection is not available for any work of the United States Government.)

WHY NOT CEDAR SHAVINGS?

For years, cedar shavings have been used as bedding for many species of small mammals including ferrets. Over the last ten years, increasing evidence is cropping up that this may not be a good choice.

Cedar shavings, as well as other aromatic soft woods, such as white and yellow pines, release volatile hydrocarbons which affect those animals living in them. Plicatic acid, a volatile hydrocarbon, results in asthma in humans and rabbits. Other hydrocarbons result in changes in the liver, which may impair its ability to detoxify certain drugs, including various anesthetic agents. Cedar shavings have also been incriminated in increased mortality in rat pups, and various scientists over the years have alluded to possible carcinogenicity. In chicken litter, cedar shavings harbored more bacteria than other types of litter.

On the more practical side, a 1986 article in Lab Animal evaluated many of the common bedding materials, also including hardwood chips, sawdust, paper chips, newspaper, ground corncob, rabbit pellets, straw, and hay (along with several others) for the following: absorbency, dust, endogenous effects on the animal, cost, use in nesting, and disposability. In all categories, cedar shavings was not recommended. Interestingly enough, paper products and heat-treated softwood chips scored highest overall.

In my experience, ferrets are happiest in old sweatshirt or towels, which rarely cause problems. Beware, however, the bored caged ferret, who may ingest parts of these items for lack of other stimulation, and obtain a gastrointestinal foreign body in the process.

References:

1. Weichbrod RH et al. Selecting bedding material. Lab Anim. Sept 1986, pp.25-29.
2. Kraft LM. The manufacture, shipping, receiving, and quality control of rodent bedding materials. Lab Animal Sci. 1980 pp. 366-372.
3. Weichbrod RH et. al. Effects of Cage Beddings on Microsomal Oxidative Enzymes in Rat Liver. Lab Animal Sci. 38(3): 296-298, 1988.
4. Hessler, JR. Design and Management of Animal Facilities. In Laboratory Animal Medicine, JG Fox, ed. Academic Press Inc, Orlando. 1984.
5. Chan H. et al. A rabbit model of hypersensitivity to plicatic acid, the agent responsible for red cedar asthma. J Allergy Clin Immunol 79(5) : 762-767.

How do I train my pet not to nip?

Like kittens and puppies, ferret kits must be taught not to nip. A ferret which has been bred to be a pet shouldn't be vicious or bite, but ferret play does include mock combat, and young ones won't know how hard they can put their teeth on you without hurting you. A playing ferret may run at you with his mouth open or even put his teeth on your hand, but if he presses down hard enough to hurt, you need to discipline him. Just remember, ferrets aren't malicious, they just need to learn what behavior is acceptable.

A very few otherwise calm, gentle ferrets will react in an extreme way to a high-pitched noise such as a squeaky toy (perhaps only one particular toy) or the sound of rubbing fingers on a window or a balloon. Nobody's quite sure why that sets them off, though it seems to be a protective instinct of some sort. If your ferret is one of those few who bites wildly at the source of such a sound, my best advice is, don't make that sound around them.

Sometimes a ferret which has been mistreated will bite out of fear, or an older ferret might bite because of pain, either in the mouth or elsewhere. In either of these cases, strict discipline isn't going to do any good. For an animal in pain, of course, take it to the vet. For an abused ferret, try one of the alternatives mentioned below, and have a lot of patience: the ferret has to learn to trust someone when all it has known before is abuse. Regina Harrison has created a Web page about caring for and rehabilitating such "problem" ferrets.

In all cases, positive reinforcement (giving treats and lots of praise when the ferret does well) works much better than punishment, but if you need one, use a "time out" for a few minutes in a cage or carrier. Similarly, don't set the ferret down when he struggles and nips -- you'll be teaching him that that's the way to get what he wants. Finally, whichever method you use, consistency and immediacy are very important.

Alternatives to nose-flicking

Flicking the ferret's nose while his teeth are on you is a pretty common form of discipline, but it might not be the best. Your ferret might end up associating you with bad things rather than good ones. Also, it's a very bad idea to use nose-tapping or other physical discipline on a ferret who has been mistreated or who acts unusually aggressive or frightened. There are several alternatives, which you might want to try in combination:

I'm having problems litter-training. What do I do?

Ferrets can be trained to use a litter pan, but unlike cats, they don't take to it automatically. To litter-train your ferret, start him out in a small area, perhaps his cage, and expand his space gradually as he becomes better trained. If it's a big cage, you might need to block off part of it at first.

Fasten the litter pan down so it can't be tipped over. Keep a little dirty litter in it at first, to mark it as a bathroom and to deter him from digging in it. Don't let it get too dirty, though; some ferrets can be pretty finicky about their pans. Likewise, ferrets and cats often don't like to share pans with each other. Most ferrets won't mess up their beds or food, so put towels or food bowls in all the non-litter corners until your ferret is used to making the effort to find a pan. Bedding that has been slept in a few times and smells like sleeping ferret will be even better than clean bedding for convincing a ferret that a corner is a bedroom instead of a bathroom.

Ferrets generally use their pans within fifteen minutes of waking up, so make sure yours uses the pan before you let him out, or put him back in the cage five or ten minutes after you wake him up to come play. When he's out running around for playtime, keep a close eye on him, and put him in his litter pan every half hour or so, or whenever you see him "pick up a magazine and start to back into a corner" (as one FML subscriber put it).

Whenever your ferret uses a litterpan, whether you had to carry him to it or not, give him lots of praise and a little treat right away. Ferrets will do almost anything for treats, and they're fast learners. Within a few days, your ferret will probably be faking using the pan, just to get out of the cage or get a treat. That's okay; at least it reinforces the right idea.

Positive reinforcement (treats and praise) are usually much more effective than any punishment, but if you need one, use a firm "No!" and cage time. Rubbing the ferret's nose in his mess won't do any good. He can't connect it to it being in the wrong place, and ferrets sniff their litter pans anyway. As with all training, consistency and immediacy are crucial. Scolding a ferret for a mistake that's hours or even a few minutes old probably won't help a bit.

If he picks the wrong corner

If your ferret's favorite corner isn't yours, you have a few choices. could put a pan (or newspaper, if it's a tight spot) in it; ferrets have short legs and attention spans, so you'll probably need several pans around your home anyway. Otherwise, try putting a crumpled towel or a food bowl in the well-cleaned corner, making it look more like a bedroom or kitchen than a latrine.

"Accident" corners should be cleaned very well with vinegar, diluted bleach, or another bad-smelling disinfectant (don't let your ferret onto it 'till it dries!), specifically so they don't continue to smell like ferret bathrooms but also as a general deterrent. For the same reason, you probably shouldn't clean litter pans with bleach, certainly not the same one you're using as a deterrent elsewhere. Urine which has soaked into wood will still smell like a bathroom to a ferret even when you can't tell, so be sure to clean it very well, perhaps with Simple Green or a pet odor remover, and consider covering wooden cage floors with linoleum or polyurethane.

Nobody's perfect

Although almost every ferret can be trained to use a litter pan, there is individual variation. Ferrets just aren't as diligent about their pans as most cats, so there will be an occasional accident. Even well-trained ferrets tend to lose track of their litter pans when they're particularly frightened or excited, or if they're in a new house or room. In general you can expect at least a 90% "hit" rate, though some ferrets just don't catch on as well and some do considerably better. At least ferrets are small, so their accidents are pretty easy to clean up.

Finally, if your ferret seems to have completely forgotten all about litter pans, you might need to retrain him by confining him to a smaller area or even a cage for a week or so and gradually expanding his space as he catches on again.

How can I get my ferret to stop digging?

Many ferrets love to dig. They'll dig in their litter pans, under the cushions of the couch, and at the carpet near closed doors. To get your ferret to stop tossing litter all over, start out by putting less in the pan, and keep it just clean enough that there's a dry layer on top. Litter digging tends to be a kit behavior, perhaps because kits have so much energy and are often cooped up in cages, so with time and luck your ferret will grow out of it. It's nearly impossible to train a ferret not to dig at all, so you're better off protecting your property and removing the temptation. Some digging, especially in the litter pan, can be out of boredom, so playing with the ferret more can help, too. You can also help control your ferret's digging by giving her somewhere approved to dig. A box filled with dirt, sand and gravel, then set into a larger box to contain the mess, can be great fun to a ferret. Your ferret may also enjoy digging outside, closely supervised of course.

How can I stop my ferret from digging in his food or water?

A lot of ferrets like to dig in their food or water bowls. If the bowls are in contained areas and the ferrets are willing to eat off the floor, the easiest solution is to provide a back-up water bottle and ignore the digging. You can also put the bowls in larger pans to contain the mess; use separate pans for the food and water, so the spilled food doesn't get soggy and spoil.

Heavy bowls that angle inward can help, or for more diligent water-bowl diggers, you can switch to a bottle. Likewise, some people find that a J-type rabbit feeder works well for food, though others find that just gives their ferrets a lot more food to joyfully spread around the room. At least one person used a PVC p-trap with a smaller opening instead. Another nearly dig-proof design is to put the food in a covered plastic Tupperware-type container and cut a hole in the top just big enough for the ferret's head.

Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping?

First of all, unless your ferret goes snorkeling in butterscotch pudding or has a bad case of fleas, you really don't need to bathe her very often at all. It doesn't affect the odor much; in fact, many ferrets smell worse for a few days following a bath. The best thing you can do to control your ferret's scent is to change her bedding every few days and keep the litter pans clean.

The problem with frequent bathing is that it can cause dry skin, especially in winter. There's nothing wrong with bathing your ferret only once a year. Once a month should be okay, but switch to less often if you have problems with dry skin. Most ferrets don't seem to mind baths much. Some ferrets enjoy a bath quite a bit, swimming around in the tub and diving for the drain plug.

Nail trimming

The first step in bathing a ferret (well, after catching her) is to check her nails and trim them if necessary. Jim Lapeyre describes the recommended procedure like this:
Thus saith the Wise:
"When Haz-Abuminal saw that clipping the claws of the domestic ferret was grievous, he pondered day and night for a year and a day. After the year and the day had passed, he rose, and, taking the ferret in his lap, dropped three drops of Linatone upon the belly [of the ferret], which, perceiving that its navel had Linatone, turned to lick. Thus distracted, the ferret heeded not that the claws were being trimmed, and there was much rejoicing. And when the claws were all neatly trimmed, the people were amazed and astonished, saying, Who is this who, alone among mankind, has tricked a ferret?"
If you have trouble even with this method, and you have a helper, have the helper hold the ferret by the scruff of the neck and put Ferretone on one of his fingers. Scruffing a ferret will generally make her calm down and possibly even go limp, and if not, the Ferretone should keep her distracted.

Cut the nail just longer than the pink line inside it. Place the cut parallel to where the floor will be when the ferret stands, to prevent the tip from breaking later. (A drawing is available.) Be careful not to nick the line or the toe, since in either case it'll bleed a lot and your ferret will decide nail clipping is not a good thing. Kwik-Stop or some other styptic powder is good to have around in case this happens, to stop the bleeding quickly, or you can hold a piece of tissue or paper towel over the nail and elevate the foot for a few minutes until it stops.

Cleaning ears

Next you should check your pet's ears. They shouldn't need cleaning more than once a month at most, but if they seem unduly dirty, dampen a cotton swab with sweet oil (made for cleaning babies' ears) or an alcohol-based ear cleaner (only if dry skin is not a problem) and gently clean them. Peroxide, water, and ointments are not recommended, because wet ears are much more prone to infections. Hold the swab along the animal's head rather than poking it into the ear, to avoid injuring the ear. Yellowish or brownish-red ear wax is normal, but if you see any black substance your pet probably has ear mites, which should be taken care of [10.10].

There are also several excellent products made for cleaning cats' ears, which you just squirt in and they shake out. They're just fine for ferrets, and your vet should be able to tell you about them.

The bath

[Photo of two ferrets swimming in a tub]
Now fill a tub or kitchen sink partway with warm water. Many people have found that ferrets prefer their baths warmer than you'd expect, probably because their body temperatures are pretty high. You don't want to scald your ferret, but if you can put your hand or foot into the water and feel comfortable right away, it should be okay. If you want to let your pet play in the water, fill a tub just deeper than the ferret is tall, and provide some sort of support (a box in the tub) in case she gets tired of swimming. You can also take her into the shower with you; many ferrets who don't like baths are perfectly happy being held in a shower.

Finally, bathe the ferret. Ferret shampoos are available, or no-tears baby shampoo works fine too. Some people like Pert for Kids if the ferret has dry skin. Wet the ferret completely, either in one half of a double sink or in a tub. Lather her from head to tail. Our ferrets both start to struggle at this point, so we let them put their hind legs on the side of the tub while they're being washed. Rinse the ferret thoroughly in clear, warm running water. For dry skin, some people then dip the ferret in a dilute solution of moisturizer in water, being careful to keep her head out.

Older, sick, or weak ferrets can be gently cleaned using baby oil, which can also help get gooey things out of fur.

Drying off

Drying a wiggly, dripping ferret can be a lot of fun. Some people put a couple of towels and the ferrets together in a cardboard box or small, clean garbage can and let them dry themselves. I find it's easiest to keep the ferret in a towel at chest-level, holding her head and torso in one hand while drying her with the other. Wearing a terry bathrobe is helpful here too. You could also put your ferret on the floor in a towel and rub her dry, but she'll probably think you're playing a rowdy game of tousle and try to run away. Once you've got her mostly dry, put her somewhere warm with a dry towel to roll in and she'll finish the job, although it's been mentioned that a damp ferret seems to lose all sense of judgment, suddenly thinking that walls, cage floors, milk cartons, and everything except the towel must be remarkably water-absorbent. You can also try using a hair dryer on its coolest setting, but many ferrets won't stand for that.

[Photo of a ferret dancing]
Immediately after a bath, many ferrets pretty much go nuts, thrashing and bouncing from side to side and rolling against everything in sight. Mainly they're trying to dry themselves, with a good bit of general excitement from the bath and drying process too.

What games do ferrets like to play?

Most ferrets enjoy mock combat, chase, tug-o'-war, hide-and-seek, and so forth, with each other or with you. Ours love to bounce around on our fluffy comforter, swat at us from behind the bookcases, and attack each other through the throw rugs. They like to explore new things and places, sniff new smells, dig and roll in the dirt. Most of them love human interaction and will gladly include you in their play if you make the time for them. It may take you a little while to learn what each ferret's favorite games are, but soon you'll be one of their best playmates.
[Photo of a ferret carrying off a pen]
Ferrets also love to swipe things and drag them into the most inaccessible location possible. Protect your keys and wallet.

[Photo of a ferret dancing]
If your ferret jumps back and forth in front of you or tugs on your pants leg, he wants to play. An appropriate response would be to get down on your hands and knees and chase him around, or to dangle a washcloth in front of him and start a tugging game, for instance. If he dances around, chuckling and dooking and bouncing off the walls, he's having fun.

Here are a few more specific game suggestions, from the fertile imagination of "Mo' Bob" Church. Note that many of these games need you to supervise (or join in!), to make sure the ferrets don't get hurt or stuck or swallow anything they shouldn't.